After traveling around Southeast Asia for two years, I returned to Seoul with a list of places I had saved from YouTube videos. I am now visiting them one by one and seeing my familiar city from a traveler’s perspective.
My destination for the day was Tongin Market (통인시장) in Seochon. Although I had lived in Seoul for more than ten years, I had never visited the market or tried its famous gireum tteokbokki.
Getting to Tongin Market from Gyeongbokgung Station
Tongin Market is about an eight-minute walk from Gyeongbokgung Station on Seoul Subway Line 3.
I arrived around noon on a Tuesday. Perhaps because it was a weekday, the market was relatively quiet and easy to explore without large crowds.
Inside, I found small restaurants and vendors selling side dishes, rice cakes, dumplings, and other Korean foods. I also noticed a black-and-white photo studio with a distinctly old-fashioned atmosphere. It could be a fun place to take a souvenir photo if you are visiting with someone.
Tongin Market[View on Google Maps]
Ordering Gireum Tteokbokki at Tongin Market
My main reason for visiting was to try gireum tteokbokki (기름떡볶이) at Wonjo Halmeoni Gireum Tteokbokki.
The stall offered two versions: soy sauce and spicy seasoning. Each serving cost 5,000 won during my visit.
Unfortunately, there was no half-and-half option. Solo travelers have to choose one flavor or order two full servings to try both. I think a mixed serving would be popular, even if it cost slightly more.
After some consideration, I chose the soy sauce version.
What Is Gireum Tteokbokki?
Gireum tteokbokki is different from the saucy red tteokbokki commonly found at Korean street-food stalls.
Instead of simmering the rice cakes in a generous amount of sauce, the vendor cooks them with oil and seasoning on a large griddle. I watched the rice cakes being stirred with wooden spatulas as steam rose from the hot surface.
My Honest Review of Soy Sauce Gireum Tteokbokki
The finished rice cakes were lightly browned on the outside and coated in a glossy soy sauce seasoning.
The flavor reminded me of sweet-and-savory soy-glazed Korean fried chicken. Despite the name “oil tteokbokki,” it did not taste as heavy or greasy as I had expected.
The rice cakes were slightly crisp on the outside and chewy inside. The soy sauce flavor was mild and easy to enjoy, especially for travelers who do not eat spicy food.
Still, I wished I could have sampled a few pieces of the spicy version. Offering both flavors in one serving would have made the experience more satisfying for a solo visitor.
Exploring Seochon After Tongin Market
After eating at Tongin Market, I continued walking around Seochon. I visited Yi Sang’s House and the Park No-soo Art Museum while exploring the neighborhood’s narrow streets.
Tongin Market can be combined with these nearby cultural attractions to create an easy half-day itinerary in Seoul.
After spending three months in Chiang Mai and another month in Nha Trang, being back in Seoul felt surprisingly refreshing. Places that I had overlooked while living here now felt like part of a new journey.
Wonjo Halmeoni Gireum Tteokbokki[View on Google Maps]
Is Tongin Market Gireum Tteokbokki Worth Trying?
Gireum tteokbokki is quite different from the spicy, saucy tteokbokki that many visitors associate with Korean street food.
If you enjoy chewy rice cakes and sweet, savory soy sauce flavors, it is worth trying at least once. The soy sauce version is also a good choice for travelers who want to try tteokbokki without too much spice.
I would recommend adding Tongin Market to a Seochon or Gyeongbokgung itinerary rather than visiting only for the food. Exploring the surrounding neighborhood made the trip more enjoyable.
Location and Price
- Tongin Market: 18 Jahamun-ro 15-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
- Wonjo Halmeoni Gireum Tteokbokki (원조할머니 기름떡볶이):13 Jahamun-ro 15-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
- Nearest station: Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3
- Walking time: About 8 minutes from the station
- Price during my visit: 5,000 won per serving